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Maggie’sTamales & Catering
Tamale KitchenBy Chef Maggie9 min read

What makes masa gluten-free, and when it is not

What makes masa gluten-free, and when it is not

Is masa gluten-free? People ask me this from two directions: the office manager ordering lunch for a team that includes someone with celiac disease, and the home cook standing in the grocery aisle holding a bag of masa harina. The answer is the same for both, and it starts with understanding what masa actually is, because that is what makes it safe, and what makes the exceptions easy to spot.

The short answer: Yes, true masa is gluten-free. It is made from corn that has been cooked in alkaline water, rinsed and ground, and corn has no gluten. Masa stops being gluten-free only when something is added: wheat flour worked into the dough, a bouillon or broth that contains wheat, or a mill and kitchen that also process wheat. Our masa is corn; our kitchen also makes flour-tortilla burritos.

What masa actually is

Masa means dough in Spanish, but in a tamale kitchen it means one specific dough. It starts with dried field corn, the hard, starchy kind, not sweet corn. The kernels are simmered and then soaked in water with calcium hydroxide, which cooks call cal or slaked lime. That soak is called nixtamalization, from the Nahuatl word for the treated corn, and it is a technique older than any written recipe.

The lime does three things. It loosens the tough outer hull so it rinses away. It changes the starch so the ground corn holds together as a dough instead of falling apart like cornmeal. And it frees up niacin and other nutrients that are locked inside untreated corn. After the soak, the corn is rinsed, and the soft kernels, now called nixtamal, are ground into fresh masa. Whip that with fat, broth and salt and you have the dough that goes into a tamal.

Look at the ingredient list in that paragraph: corn, water, lime, fat, broth, salt. There is no wheat anywhere. Gluten is a protein found in wheat, barley and rye, and corn does not make it. So masa is not gluten-free because someone removed the gluten. It is gluten-free because gluten was never there to begin with.

Masa, masa harina, cornmeal and corn flour are not the same thing

This is where home cooks get tripped up, because the grocery store shelves four different corn products side by side and only two of them make tamales.

Corn products, whether they make tamales, and where gluten can hide
ProductWhat it isMakes tamales?Naturally gluten-free?Watch for
Fresh masaNixtamalized corn, freshly groundYesYesAdded wheat flour in some shops; ask
Masa harinaNixtamalized corn, dried and milled to flourYes, with water and fatYesShared mills; look for a gluten-free label
CornmealDried corn ground without nixtamalizationNo, it will not bindYesShared mills; cornbread mixes often add wheat
Corn flourCornmeal ground finerNoYesSame as cornmeal
Masa preparadaReady-mixed masa with fat and seasoningsYesDependsBroth, bouillon and fillers; read every line

The lime treatment is the line between masa and everything else. Cornmeal and corn flour are gluten-free too, but they will never bind into a tamal, so if a recipe or a store tells you they will, walk away. Masa harina is dried, milled masa and works fine for tamales at home. Fresh masa from a tortilleria is what serious kitchens use, and it is what we use, whipped each morning from scratch.

When masa is not gluten-free

Every exception is an addition. Corn does not sprout gluten; people put it there. These are the ways it happens, from the most common to the rarest.

Wheat flour in the dough

Some cooks and some shops add a handful of all-purpose flour to masa to make it lighter or to stretch it. It is not traditional, and it is not common, but it exists, and it turns a gluten-free dough into a wheat dough with no change in how it looks. This is the first question to ask anyone selling you tamales: is there any wheat flour in the masa?

Broth, bouillon and seasoning packets

Masa is whipped with broth for flavor. Homemade broth is meat, water and aromatics. Some packaged broths and many bouillon cubes and powders contain wheat as a thickener or as part of a “natural flavor”. A kitchen that uses those in its masa or its fillings has added gluten without ever touching a bag of flour. Read the bouillon label, or ask the kitchen what goes in the broth.

Baking powder and fats

A little baking powder makes masa fluffy. Most brands use cornstarch as the filler, but a few use wheat starch, so the label is worth ten seconds. Lard and vegetable shortening are gluten-free on their own; the concern is only ever a flavored or blended product with an ingredient list longer than one item.

Shared mills and shared kitchens

This is the one that matters most for celiac guests. A mill that grinds wheat and corn on the same equipment can leave traces of wheat in the corn. A kitchen that handles flour tortillas can leave traces of flour where the tamales are made. Neither adds gluten to the recipe, but both can add it to the plate, and for someone who reacts to trace amounts, that is the difference between comfortable and sick.

Golden tamales in husks on a cloth with cilantro and red chiles

What our masa is, and what our kitchen is not

Now the answer for my own kitchen, said the way I would say it on the phone. Our tamales are made with gluten-free corn masa. No wheat flour goes into the dough. The fillings are pork in red chile salsa and chicken breast in green tomatillo salsa, made from scratch each morning with real chiles, some of them brought from Mexico in my grandpa’s suitcase, and no shortcuts.

What we are not is a certified gluten-free facility. Our lunch menu includes chicken and pork burritos on flour tortillas, and they are made in the same kitchen. We keep the tortillas and the tamales apart the way any careful kitchen does, but a certification means a third-party audit of a building with no gluten in it, and ours has flour tortillas in it. I would rather you hear that from me now than discover it later.

In practice, most gluten-sensitive guests are completely comfortable with a corn-masa tamal from a shared kitchen, and they order from us regularly. A guest with celiac disease who reacts to trace amounts should get those facts and decide for themselves. That is the same conversation I walk through in are tamales gluten-free, and for every other allergen, dairy, nuts, soy and the rest, my answer comes on the quote, from the recipe, in writing, as I explain in tamales and allergens.

How to check any masa before you trust it

Whether you are buying tamales from a kitchen or masa from a store, the same five questions get you a real answer. They take two minutes and they are not rude; a good kitchen is glad to be asked.

  1. Is the masa corn only, with no wheat flour added? This is the question that catches the biggest problem. A yes should be immediate.
  2. What broth or bouillon goes into the masa and the fillings? Homemade broth is fine. If it is a packaged product, ask whether the label says wheat.
  3. Is the baking powder or any seasoning blend gluten-free? Usually yes; worth confirming for a celiac guest.
  4. Is the kitchen certified gluten-free, or shared? Most are shared, including ours. The honest kitchens tell you what else they cook.
  5. Are pans labeled by filling, and can the flour items travel separately? Labels prevent the mix-up at the buffet, which is where most real-world cross-contact happens.

For a bag of masa harina at the store, the shortcut is a gluten-free label on the front, which means the maker has tested for it, plus an ingredient list that says corn and lime and nothing else. For the deeper story of what goes into the whole tamal, husk to filling, see what tamales are made of.

Ordering tamales for a gluten-free guest

Once you know the masa is corn, the rest is logistics, and it is easy. Order pork and chicken tamales with the salsas and crema on the side. If the group wants burritos too, ask for them in a separate labeled pan and set that pan at the far end of the line with its own serving spoon; a gluten-free guest can skip it without asking anyone. Put the guest’s name and the word celiac or gluten-free in the quote notes so I see it while I am cooking, not after.

This works for an office lunch where one person on the team is gluten-free and does not want a separate sad box, and for a birthday or family party where an aunt has celiac disease and everyone else just wants tamales. One menu, one pan of each filling, and nobody is singled out. The general dietary answers are on our FAQ page; the specific answer for your order comes from me.

Ready to order gluten-free corn masa tamales?

If you are feeding a group that includes someone gluten-free, Maggie’s can make that simple. Our tamales are made with gluten-free corn masa, delivered hot by our own team to Richardson, Plano, Frisco, Allen, McKinney and Dallas, labeled by filling, with salsas and crema on request. Tell me the date, the headcount and who needs to eat gluten-free, and I will send a menu from the tamale menu, a price, and a straight answer about our shared kitchen the same business day. Request a catering quote and put the gluten-free note right at the top.

Frequently asked questions

Is masa gluten-free?

Yes. Masa is made from corn that has been cooked in alkaline water, rinsed and ground, and corn contains no gluten. The traditional ingredient list is corn, water, lime, fat, broth and salt, none of which contain wheat, barley or rye. Masa becomes a problem only when wheat flour is added to the dough, a bouillon with wheat goes into the broth, or a shared mill or kitchen leaves traces of wheat behind.

Is masa harina gluten-free?

Masa harina is dried, milled masa, so it is naturally gluten-free for the same reason fresh masa is: it is corn treated with lime and nothing else. The only risk is a mill that also processes wheat, which can leave traces. For a celiac cook, choose a bag with a gluten-free label on the front, which means the maker tests for it, and an ingredient list that reads corn and lime only.

Does masa have wheat in it?

Not by nature. True masa is corn, and wheat only appears if a cook adds it. Some shops work a little all-purpose flour into masa to lighten or stretch it, and some packaged broths and bouillons used to season masa contain wheat. Neither is traditional. Ask any kitchen two questions: is there wheat flour in the masa, and what broth goes into it. A yes and a homemade-broth answer mean the dough is corn only.

Is the masa in Maggie’s tamales gluten-free?

Yes. Our tamales are made with gluten-free corn masa, no wheat flour, with pork in red salsa and chicken breast in green salsa cooked from scratch each morning. We are not a certified gluten-free facility, because burritos on flour tortillas are made in the same kitchen. Most gluten-sensitive guests are comfortable with that; a guest with celiac disease who reacts to trace amounts should decide with those facts in hand.

Is cornmeal the same as masa, and is it gluten-free?

Cornmeal is gluten-free, but it is not masa. Cornmeal is dried corn ground without the lime treatment, so its starch never changes and it will not bind into a tamale dough. Masa and masa harina are corn that has been nixtamalized first, which is what lets the dough hold together around a filling. Cornbread mixes made with cornmeal frequently add wheat flour, so those are a separate question entirely.

What is nixtamalization, and does it remove gluten?

Nixtamalization is cooking and soaking dried corn in water with calcium hydroxide, then rinsing and grinding it. It loosens the hull, changes the starch so the ground corn forms a dough, and unlocks nutrients such as niacin. It does not remove gluten, because there was never any gluten in the corn to remove. It is the step that turns corn into masa, and it is thousands of years old.

Chef Maggie
Written by

Chef Maggie

Founder and head cook at Maggie's Tamales & Catering in Richardson, Texas. Every tamal comes from her family's recipes and her own scratch kitchen. More about Maggie →

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